An INCI list — International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients — is the standardised ingredient panel on a cosmetic product. Reading one well is mostly a matter of knowing its limits.
The ordering rule, and where it stops
Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration, but only down to 1%. Below that threshold they may appear in any order.
This matters more than it sounds. Many marketed actives are used below 1%. An ingredient appearing near the end of a panel might be present at 0.9% or at 0.001%, and the panel cannot distinguish them. Position tells you a lot at the top of a list and almost nothing at the bottom.
Trade names are not INCI names
This trips up more people than the ordering rule. A brand markets an ingredient by its supplier trade name; the panel must use the INCI name. They are different systems.
SNAP-8 is a good example, and one that appears in the Amplified Glow range. It is a supplier trade name. It will not appear on an ingredient panel under that name, and a supplier trade name may cover a solution containing the peptide alongside solvents rather than a single substance. Our SNAP-8 page explains why we decline to assert its panel identity without reading the panel.
The habit worth building: when a product markets an ingredient by a name that looks like a product code, expect the panel to say something different.
Category words hide specifics
Some words on a label are categories, not ingredients.
- Keratin
- Not one INCI entry. Hydrolyzed keratin, keratin amino acids and others differ in form and source. See our keratin page.
- Vitamin C
- A family. Ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and several other derivatives behave differently in a formula.
- Collagen
- Hydrolyzed collagen and soluble collagen are distinct entries.
- “…Extract”
- A botanical extract's composition depends on the extraction method and solvent, which are not disclosed on a panel.
- Fragrance / Parfum
- A single panel entry that may cover dozens of individual components.
What an INCI list never tells you
- Exact percentages of anything.
- Molecular weight, which matters for ingredients like hyaluronic acid.
- The composition of any extract or fragrance.
- Formula pH.
- Whether an ingredient is present at a level that does anything.
That last one is the point of the whole exercise. An ingredient panel establishes presence. It does not establish function.
A practical note on the Amplified Glow range
None of this can currently be applied to Amplified Glow products, because no Amplified Glow product page publishes a full INCI list as text. The ingredient panel appears only in packaging photography. That is recorded as an outstanding item on every product review on this site, and it means anyone screening for a specific ingredient has to contact the brand directly.